The latest menswear cycle across Milan and Paris was not only about the biggest houses. It also gave a clear signal about where the next wave is coming from labels with strong identities, and focus on construction and form.
We present our take on the brands to watch out for.
Jeanne Friot (Paris)
Jeanne friot is a new commer to the scene but already is placed at very good spot in the calandar. Them arriving as a runway newcomer in Paris is one of the clearest signs that the calendar is making room for labels with a distinct point of view. Editors are watching the brand because it reads as directional without losing wearability.
Magliano (Paris)
Magliano has moved from "promising" to "breakout" territory. The brand now sits in the conversation with the most talked-about newer menswear names in Paris.
ERL, KML, Sonia Carrasco, Ssstein (Paris Presentations)
These names are important because presentations in Paris are often where buyers and editors identify brands one or two seasons before mainstream breakout.
- ERL: continues to hold high curiosity through a recognizable visual world.
- KML: a new add that signals expanding buyer tracking in the segment.
- Sonia Carrasco: gaining attention through sharper positioning on the presentation calendar.
- Ssstein: increasingly watched for consistency and a strong product read.
These brands are constatly showing in paris
Kartik Research (Paris)
Kartik Research stands out for craft led storytelling and a clear material identity. The brand's visibility in meaningful slots reflects growing confidence from the Paris system. Kartik has placed his brand at a really great spot with it's focus on heritage and local craft. The brands identity is easy to spot
Milan Digital Newcomers: Ajabeng, Kente Gentlemen, State of Chaos, Absent Findings, Raimondi, Subwae
This cluster is one of the most interesting outcomes from Milan: six digital newcomers entering the official structure in the same cycle. That usually means the ecosystem is intentionally building a pipeline rather than reacting to hype.
Domenico Orefice and Victor Hart (Milan)
Both names gained stronger calendar visibility this season. That matters in Milan, where schedule real estate is highly competitive and often tied to industry confidence.
Final Read
If the question is "who is next," this cycle points to two tracks:
- Paris track: Jeanne Friot, Magliano, KML, Ssstein, and Kartik Research.
- Milan track: Ajabeng, Kente Gentlemen, State of Chaos, Absent Findings, Raimondi, Subwae, plus rising visibility for Domenico Orefice and Victor Hart.
The most practical way to follow them is simple watch slot quality, repeat calendar presence, and whether they move from presentation momentum into stronger runway positioning over the next two seasons.